Follow Charlie and Jane on their trip around Australia

Saturday 25 June 2011

Edith Falls and Katherine Gorge Nitmiluk National Park - Katherine

Me at the Lower Pool at Edith Falls

Don't jump - I don't know how to hook up the caravan!!

Edith Falls - Upper Pool - Aaaah we still like each other

Beautiful Edith Falls - imagine it in the wet season

Me venturing into the cold, cold water

Charlie in the cold, cold water but only by default - he slipped!!!!

Cruising up the Katherine Gorge

One of the many sandy beaches along the Gorge where the freshwater crocs lay their eggs

Another gorge view

Another gorge view - no not me!!!  This is the most photographed section  of the second gorge

Charlie at the edge of the Lily Ponds swimming hole as part of our 3 gorge cruise

Bats hanging in the tree in Nitmiluk National Park - a very heady aroma of bat poo all around!!!

Well we had a brilliant day at Edith Falls (Leliyn)  in the Nitmiluk National Park the other day.  At the base of the Falls is a large pandanus fringed plunge pool called the Lower Pool which is a popular swimming area.  I just sat on a rock and looked pretty there - it was a bit too cold for me!!  The park has lots of walking trails and the one we did was called the Leliyn Trail which is a 2.6 km round trip that climbs to the top of the escarpment and then down to the upper pools.

The view of the Falls was absolutely breathtaking and there were many people there swimming.  I went in up to my knees and stood there for a while until Charlie came in and he promptly slipped and fell in by default.  After he stopped screaming at the cold, he quite enjoyed it - he needs more meat on him like me so that he doesn't feel the cold so much!!  That's why I always say I need more water to shower - there's more of me to wash and my dangly bits are danglier than his!!  We stayed there for a while and then walked back and had a picnic in the picnic grounds plus an icecream - my bum is growing for those pink checked shorts although haven't been able to find any yet in the op shops and of course MUST  have the matching top!!  Anyway a few more happy hours/champers/wine/cheese/bikkies - gee I'm going to look spectacular at the end of this trip.

We also went on a Nitmiluk Gorge Cruise up the Katherine River which was for 4 hours and we did 3 gorges and also had 45 minutes at the Lily Ponds swimming hole.  It was spectacular and the guide we had told us all about the Jawoyn people whose land it is, the Johnson River crocs (freshwater), the bird life and general info.  He also told us that the day before he had caught 5 barramundi but Charlie didn't want to hear about that.  Our tour was called "The Timeless Land" and its easy to see why.  There are rocks and boulders separating each gorge and so we had to have a different boat for each gorge which meant we got a bit of exercise in amongst all the eating.  It is a truly spectacular place.

After our cruise we just chilled out for the next couple of days - Charlie fishing (no, I know you don't believe he likes fishing) and me reading, eating and drinking wine.  All in all our week in Katherine has been great but I'm looking forward now to moving on tomorrow towards Darwin although if we ever get there it will be a miracle!! 

We will look at the historical gold mining town of Pine Creek, then go on to Adelaide River where Charlie the Buffalo was made famous in the Crocodile Dundee movie, and then explore Litchfield National Park before heading off to Tumbling Waters at Berry Springs.  We may get to Darwin within the next month - how long did we say this trip around Oz was going to take?  Anyway the plan is there's no plan so we shall just wait and see and keep on having fun and growing fat.

Will keep you all updated with more photos etc. etc. when there's more from the next leg of our journey. 

So for now its Adieu from The Wandering 2s.


Katherine - NT- Springvale Homestead


Springvale Homestead where we stayed in Katherine - oldest Homestead in the area

Charlie feeding barra in the billabong - he's desperate to catch one (or two!!)

Elvis the freshwater croc who lives in the billabong at Springfield Homestead

Me taking a photo of Elvis - don't know whether I'm getting ready to run or have "pooed" my pants!!!!

Charlie with his monster cherapin

Poor cherapin but a girl's gotta eat

Charlie bobbing in the hot springs in Katherine near the Homestead

Smoked catfish - I'll tell you all about this one later!!

A magnificent raintree at Springvale Homestead

part of the Katherine River running through the Homestead

Graeme and Lyn our neighbours at Springvale

Yes another damper - I'm becoming an expert now!!

Well we have had a fantastic week at Springvale Homestead which is the oldest Homestead in t he Katherine area.  It is a very laid back bush style caravan park - basic amenities but lots of lovely trees and a feeling of space right on the Katherine River with its own billabong and resident freshwater croc called Elvis.

Now Elvis comes out of the billabong every afternoon at 4 oclock for a photoshoot and stays on the banks until round about dusk.  I'm still wondering how he knows its 4 oclock but he does!!  He must have a "croc swatch" (sorry I know that's awful!!) We were down there on the first day and he almost looks stuffed and we were taking photos of him.  Charlie got a little bit too close and his jaws opened so we beat a hasty retreat!!

This area is absolutely beautiful and we have visited lots of lovely places.  Once again we are on the river so Charlie has been trying to catch more food for us to eat and luckily this time hasn't fallen in.  He came back with a few cherapins which we cooked up and one morning he came back with a catfish caught in the net.  Unfortunately I didn't have the camera to take a photo but the catfish had snuk into the net and was eating the cherapins - he had some of their whiskers hanging from his mouth.  He was promptly despatched and as Charlie was gutting him, there was this perfect cherapin in his gut - I thought for one awful moment Charlie was going to suggest cooking it up and putting it with the rest of them for us to eat.  Anyway as you can see any fish which steals his cherapins ends up on the smoker - YUM YUM!!!

We met some more lovely people called Lyn and Graeme who we shared many a campfire meal with and a few wines/beers/campfire stories etc.  They are heading in the same direction as us so hopefully we will catch up again on the road,

Nothing much else to say from here - have also been to Edith Falls and done a Katherine Gorge cruise both of which were great and I will post some photos etc. of those trips very soon.

All for now, Adieu from The Wandering 2s

Friday 17 June 2011

Mataranka - We of the Never Never

Little Roper River at our campsite

Another view of Little Roper River

Me floating in the thermal pool at Bitter Springs - heaven!!

Yes you guessed it - Little Roper River

Oops Charlie fell in trying to get his red claw net!!!

Yeah Kev and Charlie caught the snagged red claw net


Tweedle Dum and Tweedle Dumer after the successful rescue - you work out which one is which!!!

Well it was all worth it - dinner tonight!!!!  Glad I'm not hungry

Me outside the reconstructed Elsey StationHomestead which was built for the movie We of the Never Never

Cairn marking the original site of the Elsey Station Homestead

Darren and Jools (a female Frank Spencer from Some Mothers Do Ave Em)

Well here we are in Mataranka - the Capital of the Never Never.  For those of you who don't know and I'm thinking of my overseas family, this area was home to Aeneas and Jeanie Gunn - Jeanie wrote the famous book about Elsey Station titled "We of the Never Never" which is now part of Australia's folklore..  It is claimed that once you visit Mataranka, you'll Never Never leave!!!  There is the famous thermal pool at Mataranka which is a constant 34 degrees and is serviced by Rainbow Springs but we stayed at Bitter Springs and used the thermal pool there which we preferred - imagine if you will me and Charlie with noodles in hand, thongs on the end of them (to cope with the walk back to our towels) floating along with the current in the thermal springs - does it get much better than this?

Anyway we booked in for 3 nights at the Mataranka Cabins and Camping Ground which is a great bush camp, 500 metres from the thermal pools and right on the Little Roper River.  Charlie has been like a little boy, running down to the river with his red claw nets, falling in and scrambling up the bank in case of crocs - gee I wish I had been there because there certainly would have been a photo on the blog of that - instead the after picture!!  I sent him off to the showers and when he came back his towel was filthy - did he wash himself at all?  Men will always be little boys I suppose.  But he is a good hunter and gatherer having caught 4 yes 4 not (4 kg) of red claw.  I'll never go hungry travelling with my man but I'll certainly lose weight!!!

We've been off to see the Elsey Cemetery where the people from Jeanie's book are buried, including her husband.  It is quite a historical little town.  We've also been to see the replica of the Elsey Station Homestead which was built for the movie "We of the Never Never".  Its a very relaxing place and I really don't know where the time goes.

We met these really friendly people called Darren and Julie (Jools) - initially in the Bitter Springs thermal pool when I floated up and collided with him!!  We then had happy hour with them and Jools had us in hysterics for about 2 hours with her antics.  How many people do you know go to the wrong funeral and only realise it when the "corpse" walks by and says Hi??  A walking disaster but a really great person.  Thanks for your great company for the evening Darren and Julie.

Off to see the barra feeding tomorrow - Charlie still has to catch one but it will happen, don't know when but it will happen of that I am sure and then the excitement of checking the nets for red claw, reading, another swim in the thermal pool and then happy hour and dinner - that's just about our day mapped out for tomorrow.  Then on Sunday we will leave for Katherine but that's another story and another blog and another adventure yet to come of which I will share with you all later.

Adieu from The Wandering 2s.

Camooweal Qld to Mataranka NT

Banka Banka Homestead

A dead dog!!!  RIP Clarrie (only joking Charlie fixed him!!)

The station viewed from up the hill

Happy Hour at Banka Banka

Daly Waters Servo

Me outside the historic and quirky Daly Waters Pub

Another view of Daly Waters Pub with the traffic light permanently on red outside the pub

Charlie had to be inside the pub underneath all the bras of course!!!

Larrimah Pink Panther Pub - great pies!!!

At a free camp between Banka Banka and Mataranka

Well here we are again and its been a bit of an adventure for us.  My last blog was from Camooweal where we had picture perfect camping on the billabong - then one morning we were up in the township and someone who has been on the road for some time said to us "There's rain coming - you should think about moving - don't want to get stuck down there!!"  Well the sun was still shining so did we listen - NO - will we listen in future - YES!!!  We sat in our idyllic setting until about 3.30 pm when the clouds rolled over and it started raining.  We thought "oh s..t" so we packed up quick smart and were very lucky to get out.  Charlie had to put the car into 4-wheel drive and we were slipping and sliding with the caravan on the back and finally limped into the local caravan park, wet, muddy, cold and tired.

From there it went from bad to worse - nice big argument with me stomping off thinking I could do better reversing the caravan into the spot in the pouring rain but wouldn't dream of doing it!!!!  Great mud clots falling off the van and the car so Charlie got soaked trying to get it all off before it caked on.  Anyway survived that, decided I couldn't keep the silent treatment up just in case next time he decides to get out the car and leave me with the van ,had dinner and went to bed.

Next morning (as they say in the fairytale) we got up only to find that we had a puncture!!!  Could we get it fixed in Camooweal?  No!!  After waiting 3 hours for the only RACQ mechanic to come back from a call, Charlie decided to put the spare one on and get the puncture fixed in Tennant Creek.  So guess what, under the car he went again and got wet, cold and grumpy!!  Aah the caravanning life - so stress free!!!

After that we hurtled along the Barkley Highway and stayed in a free camp overnight where we met up with Di and Kev again and also Jan and Rick and after a few wines everything seemed to look better (that's drinking wine not me whining!!).  Next morning we went to Tennant Creek and got the tyre fixed, bought some more track pants for Charlie because gee its been cold in the mornings and afternoons and set off for Banka Banka Station. Stayed there for a couple of nights to recharge the batteries (human that is) where I could have nice  long hot showers without someone saying "wet yourself all over, turn the water off and soap yourself - don't leave the water running!!

From Banka Banka we carried on up the Stuart Highway and came across the iconic Daly Waters with its historic pub which was originally a supply point for drovers.  Its a great quirky pub with a "Reesephun "area and bras, knickers, money and all sorts of weird and wonderful things hanging around the place.  They have their famous beer and barra bbqs there but unfortunately we weren't staying.  We then went up the highway a bit to the Pink Panther Hotel at Larrimah where we had a  great pie in the pub with a beer which went down very well.  They also have a mini zoo there so saw Sneaky Sam the saltwater crocodile, snakes, etc.  After that as it was later in the afternoon we called into a free camp and stayed the night before heading off the next morning to stay for a few days at Mataranka - Land of the Never Never!!!

That will be another blog so for now its once again Adieu from The Wandering 2s.





Wednesday 8 June 2011

More photos from Camooweal

Charlie riding a stuffed bull at the Drovers Camp in Camooweal

Sunrise over the Camooweal Billabong

Another sunrise

Yep the sun is up and another day begins
Just wanted to add a few more photos of this beautiful spot!!  Adieu!!

Camooweal Billabong - a little haven

My first ever damper cooked on the fire - apricot, cranberry, sultana and almong - YUM!!
Charlie attempting to catch our dinner of red claw

Three men in a boat to nowhere!!

Our waterside acreage

Mmmm a seafood dinner but you have to be able to see the food first!!

Me doing the washing - don't think I would have liked to be a pioneer woman

Kerryn, Jane, Belinda and Di - the human birdlife!!

One too many maybe Di??

Louey, John, Charlie and Kev - "The boys"!!!

Campfire entertainment - thanks Louey


Sunset over the billabong
Well here we are in Camooweal and for those of you who are saying "where the bloody hell is Camooweal" its on the Queensland and Northern Territory border.  We are free camping at the Camooweal billabongs and its an idealic spot.  We have been here since last Friday and will probably stay for a few more days.  Camooweal is one of those outback towns that if you blinked you would miss but it is an old drovers town with a population now of only 310 although on the fourth weekend of August they have their festival and the town swells with all the old drovers (many of them over 80) coming to town - they have a ball and entertainment and sounds great - we shall have to come back for that one day.  We had a visit to the Drovers Camp where we learnt all about the history of the area, the stock routes etc. by a very knowledgeable lady and Charlie even had a ride on a stuffed bull.

We've met some lovely people Di and Kev and had some great times.  Last Saturday we went to a movie night at one of the other groups and it was quite funny to see two rows of camp chairs around the TV - we were in the back stalls because we got there a bit late!!!  The movie was Charlie and Boots starring Paul Hogan and Shane Richardson - typically Australian but quite good.  We heard about the white owl which took a fancy to one of the group (Wayne) and everytime he was sat outside the owl would swoop down on him.

We have had some great campfires and I cooked my first every damper - it was suggested we have damper and of course I opened my mouth saying "I know how to cook damper" and so it was over to me!!  I didn't say "I COULD cook damper" did I??  Anyway after a furtive phone call to my Earth Mother friend Lyn in Adelaide I produced a lovely damper or was it just that we had all had a lot of red wine and didn't know any different?  I like to believe the damper was magnificent!!!  Louey produced his guitar and we had some campfire entertainment although some of the words didn't quite match the tunes and as the night progressed they got raunchier and raunchier!!  We also played a version of campfire "Spicks and Specks" and of course Charlie won!!!

The birdlife here is absolutely amazing - graceful brolgas, herons, kites, ducks etc.  The human kind as you can see by the above photos are pretty amazing as well!!!

Yesterday Charlie and I made a visit back to Mt. Isa and bought a generator and some solar panels so we are now completely self sufficient because we really enjoy the bush camping as opposed to caravan parks.  Kev is helping Charlie with all the electrical stuff which is great.

Tonight we are going to cook a lamb roast on the fire and another damper and roast some chestnuts on the fire as well.  Gee its a really hard life but someone has to do it and its our turn!!

Anyway that's all for now from Camooweal - Adieu from The Wandering 2s.